Thursday, July 9, 2015

YOU TOO CAN BECOME A SAUCIER


I came within inches of wearing a deer on my front fender while on my way to a cooking class given by Ann Harwood in Princeton, New Jersey. I decided that this close encounter was a sign that I should not be on this dark winding road after a long hard day at work and concluded that I was in no mood to make nice to strangers over some random recipes. I turned my car around and headed for home. About five minutes into the ride and while listening to Abba's, Dancing Queen, my GUILT TRIPOMETER went off. It flashed - you signed up to attend a small cooking class in this women's home - doing a last minute no show is a pretty lame move - Finding no fault in that logic, I pressed rewind on my cassette player and had The Dancing Queen escort me back to the class.


Thank you GUILT TRIPOMETER! That class was by far the most instructive and useful cooking lesson that I have ever had in all my foodie years. By following a few simple steps and then combining different ingredients at each stage in the process, l was able to create an unlimited number of restaurant quality sauces to accompany meat, fish and poultry.


Cooking is an art not a science. Once you have mastered the basic technique, you can go in any direction by choosing from the many food options listed. The measurements given are only a guide and can be adjusted according to taste. This is not rocket science so have fun experimenting!
                                                                  
SAUTE/REDUCTION SAUCES FINISHED WITH CREAM
Serves four

  1. Degrease- 10 inch sauce pan with fat ( olive oil, coconut oil, butter ). 3 tbs oil, 1 tbs butter 
  2. Saute- shallots, onions and/or garlic. 1/4 cup 
  3. Deglaze- wine, liquor, brandy, or vinegar. 1/4 cup 
  4. Add stock and boil (chicken, veal demi-glaze, vegetable, or beef ). 1 cup 
  5. Add cream and boil, reducing sauce by at least a third. 1 cup 
  6. Option A- Add acid or piquant ingredients while sauce is boiling ( mustard, horseradish, lemon juice ) 1 tbs. 
  7. Option B- Add pureed or chopped ingredients ( mushrooms, leeks, pesto, veg purees, fruit, jam). 1 cup 
  8. Finish with herbs ( tarragon, marjoram, chives ). Salt and pepper to taste. 
  9. Add cornstarch slurry if sauce doesn't thicken enough to coat the back of a spoon. 1/4 cup

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      SAUTE/REDUCTION SAUCES FINISHED WITH BUTTER

Serves Four

  1. Follow steps 1 - 3 as described for cream reduction. 
  2. Add stock or stock and juice. Reduce and boil. 2 cups 
  3. Add pureed or chopped ingredients (mushrooms, veg purees, fruit, jam ). 1/2 cup 
  4. Finish by whisking in softened whole butter while sauce is boiling. 4 tbs 
  5. Add fresh herbs, salt and pepper off heat. 
  6. Add cornstarch slurry if sauce doesn't thicken enough to coat the back of a spoon. 1 tsp 1/4 cup water                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       _____________________________________________________________                 

COMBINATIONS FOR CHICKEN

  1. Onion, tsp chopped garlic, white wine, chicken stock, juiced lemon, capers, butter, parsley.
  2. Shallots, garlic, Madeira, morals and their juice, chicken stock, cream.
  3. Onion, white wine, chicken stock, cream, basil pesto.

COMBINATIONS FOR PORK
  1. Shallots, Armagnac marinade or brandy, chicken stock, pureed prunes, butter, tarragon.
  2. Shallots, garlic, Marsala, chicken stock, cream, mushrooms, dried figs.
  3. Shallots, Creme de Casis, red wine, chicken stock, blackberry or current jam, cream, tarragon.

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  • Using two sheets of wax paper and a mallet, pound 4 chicken breasts or 4 slices from a pork loin roast to approximately 1/4 inch thickness.
  • Place cutlets in a bowl containing a mixture of 1 beaten egg and 1 cup of water. 
  • Combine 1 cups of Italian breadcrumbs, 1/2 cup flour, 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp garlic power. 
  • For a lighter cutlet omit the breadcrumbs and use 2 cups of flour with the same seasonings. 
  • Lightly dredge each cutlet in breadcrumb or flour mixture.                                 


  • Saute the cutlets in approximately 1/4 cup corn oil and 2 tbs of butter. You can substitute coconut or olive oil.
  • Lightly salt the cutlets immediately after they are removed from the frying pan. 
  • Cover meat with foil. Place in 200 degree oven to keep warm.



                                                                                                      


  • Cook sauce as directed above. Remember to allow enough time (approx. five minutes) for the wine and liquor to evaporate and for the stock and cream to reduce (approx. 10 minutes). Don't rush this! Pour a glass of wine and chill.








  • Spoon sauce over warm cutlets or slip the cutlets into the saucepan and lightly stir to coat the meat.

HOPE MY BLOG WAS INFORMATIVE AND HAS INSPIRED YOU TO TRY OUT A NEW TECHNIQUE. WOULD LOVE TO HEAR FROM MY FELLOW SAUCIERS! 

UNTIL NEXT TIME .............

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Mala Femmena Manicotti

 JUST SAYING :  This family story and manicotti recipe won the Best Italian Cook contest at  Maggianos restaurant in Las Vegas.  

This family recipe brings back wonderful memories of me as a little girl stuffing manicotti crepes with my grandmother in her tiny kitchen in Queens, New York. In order to help get through the tedious task of filling each crepe, my grandmother would turn on the Victrola and play her favorite song Mala Femmena sung by Jimmy Roselli. We would pass the time singing along to the music and really hamming it up by using her rolling pin as a microphone and the refrigerator door handle as a dance partner, Every so often my uncle Vinnie, who lived with his family in the apartment upstairs, would come down and join in the fun. Uncle Vinnie was an amateur opera singer and had a beautiful and very powerful voice. His rendition of Mala Femmena would always bring us to tears. Although I didn't have a clue what the song was about since it was sung in Italian, I loved the drama of it all and learned to recite all the lyrics by heart.

It was not until several years later that I learned that we were all singing a song about a distraught man who was planning to kill his cheating wife! My grandmother shared with me her enjoyment of cooking along with her delicious recipes and old world cooking techniques. I hope you will try her fabulous manicotti. They are as light as a feather and will melt in your mouth.

If you can dedicate a lazy afternoon, I suggest that you put on your favorite CD, turn up the volume, pour a nice glass of vino, get out the rolling pin and take the refrigerator out for a spin!

My Grandma (Zia) showing off her moves:
 

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                                                                Manicotti

Pasta Crepe
5 cups flour
1 tsp salt
4 eggs
1  1/2 cups milk
3 1/2 cups water

Spray an 8-inch non-stick skillet with Pam cooking spray. When skillet is
hot pour approximately 1/4 cup of batter into pan and swirl until pan is completely
coated.  Cook for about a minute and remove cooked crepe with spatula onto
kitchen towel.  Cover with another towel to prevent them from drying out.

Filling
1 can whole milk ricotta (3lbs) preferably Polly-0
3 eggs
1/2 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1/2 cup grated Locatelli cheese
2 tbs sugar
2 - 1 lb package whole milk mozzarella preferably Polly-O

Combine ricotta with eggs (incorporate one at a time), parsley, Locatelli
cheese and sugar.  Taste for proper seasonings.  Cut mozzarella into long
slices about 1/4 inch thick.  Fill lower third of crepe with 1 tbs of prepared
ricotta and two slices of mozzarella cheese.  Roll up crepe keeping seem side
down to seal.  Cover finished crepes with kitchen towels until all crepes
are filled.  You should have about 35-40 crepes.  Place crepes on cookie
sheet or baking dish lightly sprayed with Pam.  Freeze crepes. Once crepes
are frozen you can re-package them in plastic bags for easy storing.

Cooking Manicotti
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Let frozen manocotti stand at room temperature
for about 30 minutes.  Spray Pam on bottom of glass baking dish.  The
size will depend on how many you plan to make.  You may need several
dishes if you decide to use all in the prepared recipe.  Place manicotti seem side
down onto baking dish.  Spoon tomato sause over manicotti making sure entire
surface and edges are covered.  Cook uncovered until bubbly (app. 30 minutes).
Let cooked manicotti rest for 5 minutes before serving. Serve with freshly grated
Locatellii cheese and sprigs of fresh basil leaves.  Bon Appetite!!

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STILL MAKING THOSE MANICOTTI MEMORIES!  THANKS GRANDMA!
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